Archive for the ‘Travel’ Category

Totaled

Death Valley: the driest place in North America. Less than 50mm (2in) of rain water each year. For now, an ironic bit of trivia.

Parched

It’s early. The dawn has not risen yet, but the air is a comfortable 27C (80F).

Silence. Not a bird or insect around. Nothing alive, it seems.

A strange, numinous beauty permeates the landscape. I breathe a primeval essence. Spirits roam the land.

Yesterday I came face to face with a silver fox. He was strolling on the double yellow line, one paw in front of the other. He stopped when I approached, and slowly turned his head towards me. A few slow breaths. He trots off the road.

Stillness and solitude. No signs of life as far as the eye can see.

The lowest point in North America. The air seems heavier.

Last night, pictures of star trails at Zabriskie Point. Vegas, 100 miles away, the atomic glow of its lights perpetually below the horizon.

Zabriskie Point Star Trails

I secure my 40D on its tripod.

Framing. The ridge of the mountain follows a straight line to the valley. The stars twinkle in the silvery puddle of toxic water.

The water is shallow, barely 1/2 inch, but saturated of poisonous salts and minerals. Badwater, they call it.

Exposure set to 20 minutes. I release the shutter.

I sit cross legged waiting for the camera sensor to capture the faint light. My stomach growls. I stand up and walks toward my pack to grab a snack.

A gust of wind. Plonk.

The camera lies in the water, the tripod toppled by impish elemental forces.

The camera will not capture today the beautiful reflection of the starlight. The camera will never capture another image again, vanquished by a puddle in the middle of the driest place in North America.

A Trip to Death Valley

Next week is Spring Break and this time around rather than boarding a random airplane in search of adventure I have a meticulously planned itinerary for a week in Death Valley.

Why the meticulous planning, you ask? Well, first, Death Valley is big 13,600 km2 (5,300 square miles) and it has a lot of interesting sights to see. So, traveling at random is not going to cover it. Plus, I want to maximize the number of sunsets and sunrises I can get some pictures at. To be at the right time at the right place, a little bit of planning will be required.

Here’s the itinerary I’ve devised.

Day 1

  • Drive from Las Vegas to Rhyolite ghost town
  • Goldwell Open Air art museum
  • Leadfield ghost town
  • Drive through Titus Canyon
  • Devil’s Cornfield
  • Sunset at Stovepipe Wells and Mesquite Dunes
  • Camping at Wildrose or Thorndike campgrond

Day 2

  • Sunrise at Aguereberry Point
  • Eureka Mines
  • Skidoo ghost town
  • Historic Stovepipe Wells
  • Salt Creek
  • Harmony Borax
  • Sunset at Zabriskie Point
  • Camping at Furnace Creek

Day 3

  • Sunrise at Badwater, lowest (and hottest) point in the continental US
  • Hunt for flowers in bloom at Ashford Mill
  • Eagle Borax Works
  • Artists Palette set location of Star Wars movies
  • Mushroom Rock
  • Golden Canyon
  • Sunset at Zabriskie Point
  • Camping at Furnace Creek

Day 4

  • Sunrise at Zabriskie Point
  • Twenty Mule Team canyon
  • Sunset at Dante’s View
  • Camping at Mesquite Springs

Day 5

  • Ubehebe crater
  • Teakettle junction
  • Sunset at Racetrack Playa, home of the moving rocks
  • Camping at Racetrack Playa

Day 6

  • Sunrise at Racetrack Playa
  • Scotty’s Castle
  • Sunset at Eureka Dunes
  • Camping at Eureka Dunes

Day 7

  • Sunrise at Eureka Dunes
  • Dunmovin ghost town
  • Search for the elusive U2 Joshua Tree
  • Darwin ghost town
  • Panamint Springs

Amsterdam

I’m in Amsterdam for a few days to get acclimated to my new time zone before catching the direct flight from Schipol to Kilimanjaro airport.

At this point my body is thoroughly confused as to which time zone it’s supposed to be in. Eartlier this month I was in Asia, last week in Finland and a few days ago in San Francisco. It will be good to stick to a time zone for a while.

Amsterdam is a human scale city. There are few cars in the city center, but an extensive network of public transit… and bicycles everywhere. It reminds me of San Francisco. It’s about the same size and share of some its liberal, progressive values. In both cities people will accept you for who you are, and both have an appreciation for art and artistic expression.

The Golden Age architecture, the tree lined canals, and the friendly, relaxed pace of life make it an excellent place to transition from my usual frantic pace to something a bit more mellow. I’m in purge mode now, trying to flush out my system all the worries, frustrations and annoyances from the past 18 months. Amsterdam is a great place to do that.

All packed and ready to go

Early this morning, as I was making my way to the airport I ran into a neighbor while waiting for the elevator. After exchanging a friendly greetings she observed: “You look like you’re about to climb a mountain”.

Grinning, I replied: “As a matter of fact…”.

I’m a light traveler. Really, I am. When flying I rarely check luggage and usually only carry a small bag and a day pack. For this adventure, I tried to pare down to the essential, but I ended up with two rather larger bags and a day pack. However, considering I’m packing hiking poles, a sleeping bag, food, cold weather and scuba diving gear, I suppose I did pretty well. That’s a lot of luggage to carry around, but when you have a mountain to climb…

The beginning is near

The time to depart is nearing. I suddenly came to this realization last Sunday when I calculated that I had to start my Lariam now.

I had to carefully calculate which day of the week I should pick for my weekly dose to avoid possible interference with side effects of AMS while climbing Kili. Lariam can cause CNS side-effects, including dizziness and headaches, so I timed it to be after my mountain acclimation. Since I’ll start the climb on Tuesday October 7th, Sunday seemed like a good day to pick.

I’m back from Helsinki today and after returning from the airport I dropped by REI to exchange my REI Zenith sleeping bag, rated at 20°F/6°C, for a warmer The North Face Snowshoe rated for 0°F/-18°C. It’s a synthetic bag, which is recommended against down because of the potentially damp, if not outright rainy, conditions on Kili, but it remains relatively lightweight at 1670 g (3 lbs 11 oz).

I think I got all the kit I need now. Just need to do my final bag packing, and onward we go…