Posts about Travel

Kayaking on Halong Bay

The outline of the island we had moored by for the night was barely visible when I wake up this morning. I get out of bed, swallow a cup of Vietnamese cà phê, and join the guide to the kayaks that are already waiting for us by the side of the junk.

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The air is still and the water like glass as we glide towards one of the islands nearby. There are hundreds of islands in the bay, huge columns of limestone rising fifty meters or more above water, topped by a thick jungle. As the sun rises lazily over the morning haze, birds provide a pleasant musical backdrop. With a few careful paddle maneuvers, we get to the side of an almost vertical cliff covered by vegetation that clings improbably to it. Up close, the size and beauty of these karst formations become more apparent. Looking back towards the horizon, the islands extend, seemingly infinitely, in progressively fading layers.

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We turn a corner, and make landfall at our destination, the Soi Sim beach. Our Viet Tai Chi instructor is already waiting for us, dressed in a white silk uniform. After showing us some warm ups, we try to follow along as he demonstrate a form. I struggle to keep my balance on the soft sand that keeps crumbling each time I change my posture.

After this invigorating exercise, I follow some steps, then a dirt trail that climbs to the top of the hill. From there, a majestic panoramic view of the bay awaits.

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Once back down, our guide encourages us to take a plunge in the bay. I dip my toes but the water is too cold for my taste. Unfortunately, the water is also littered with plastic bags, bottles, sandals, blocks of styrofoam and other debris. Using a big net, the crew tries to clean up a section of the beach for us, but it’s not very appealing.

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Halong Bay is deservedly a UNESCO World Heritage Site, a magical place that invites reverie and contemplation. However, the level of blatant pollution that mars it is truly saddening and spoils what was an otherwise wonderful experience

Hike to Clouds Rest

Clouds Rest — 3,025 m (9,926 ft) — is a massive granite formation just northeast of Half Dome in Yosemite National Park. From its central location you can admire many of Yosemite’s famous landmarks, including Half Dome, 332 m (1,090 ft) below, the Clark Range, the Cathedral Range and Tenaya Lake.

Clouds Rest was named by members of the Mariposa Battalion during their first visit to Little Yosemite Valley in 1851. As recounted by Lafayette Bunnel, [so named] "because upon our first visit the party exploring the ‘Little Yosemite’ turned back and hastened to camp upon seeing the clouds rapidly settling down to rest upon the mountain, thereby indicating the snow storm that soon followed". Note that the correct spelling does not include an apostrophe. Since 1890 the United States Board on Geographic Names has deprecated the use of possessive apostrophes in geographic names (there are only five exceptions).

It tends to be less crowded than Half Dome, but offer views just as stunning, if not more so if for no other reason that you can actually see Half Dome. During fall and winter, you are likely to have the trail past Little Yosemite Valley to yourself and can enjoy the quiet and solitude. Water is abundantly available while following the Merced river, but becomes scarce after that, save for occasional patches of snow. Plan accordingly.

During the warmer months Clouds Rest can be reached from Tenaya Lake by following a 21 km (13 mi) round trip trail.

When the Tioga Pass road is closed, however, you must start from the Valley floor, passing through Vernal and Nevada falls and Little Yosemite Valley, a 40 km (25 mi) round trip hike. This is a fairly easy hike, if a bit strenuous at time (Mist trail and the last 500 m before reaching the summit). Total elevation gain from the Happy Isles trailhead is 1,794 m (5,886 ft).

Totaled

Death Valley: the driest place in North America. Less than 50mm (2in) of rain water each year. For now, an ironic bit of trivia.

Parched

It’s early. The dawn has not risen yet, but the air is a comfortable 27C (80F).

Silence. Not a bird or insect around. Nothing alive, it seems.

A strange, numinous beauty permeates the landscape. I breathe a primeval essence. Spirits roam the land.

Yesterday I came face to face with a silver fox. He was strolling on the double yellow line, one paw in front of the other. He stopped when I approached, and slowly turned his head towards me. A few slow breaths. He trots off the road.

Stillness and solitude. No signs of life as far as the eye can see.

The lowest point in North America. The air seems heavier.

Last night, pictures of star trails at Zabriskie Point. Vegas, 100 miles away, the atomic glow of its lights perpetually below the horizon.

Zabriskie Point Star Trails

I secure my 40D on its tripod.

Framing. The ridge of the mountain follows a straight line to the valley. The stars twinkle in the silvery puddle of toxic water.

The water is shallow, barely 1/2 inch, but saturated of poisonous salts and minerals. Badwater, they call it.

Exposure set to 20 minutes. I release the shutter.

I sit cross legged waiting for the camera sensor to capture the faint light. My stomach growls. I stand up and walks toward my pack to grab a snack.

A gust of wind. Plonk.

The camera lies in the water, the tripod toppled by impish elemental forces.

The camera will not capture today the beautiful reflection of the starlight. The camera will never capture another image again, vanquished by a puddle in the middle of the driest place in North America.

A Trip to Death Valley

Next week is Spring Break and this time around rather than boarding a random airplane in search of adventure I have a meticulously planned itinerary for a week in Death Valley.

Why the meticulous planning, you ask? Well, first, Death Valley is big 13,600 km2 (5,300 square miles) and it has a lot of interesting sights to see. So, traveling at random is not going to cover it. Plus, I want to maximize the number of sunsets and sunrises I can get some pictures at. To be at the right time at the right place, a little bit of planning will be required.

Here’s the itinerary I’ve devised.

Day 1

  • Drive from Las Vegas to Rhyolite ghost town
  • Goldwell Open Air art museum
  • Leadfield ghost town
  • Drive through Titus Canyon
  • Devil’s Cornfield
  • Sunset at Stovepipe Wells and Mesquite Dunes
  • Camping at Wildrose or Thorndike campgrond

Day 2

  • Sunrise at Aguereberry Point
  • Eureka Mines
  • Skidoo ghost town
  • Historic Stovepipe Wells
  • Salt Creek
  • Harmony Borax
  • Sunset at Zabriskie Point
  • Camping at Furnace Creek

Day 3

  • Sunrise at Badwater, lowest (and hottest) point in the continental US
  • Hunt for flowers in bloom at Ashford Mill
  • Eagle Borax Works
  • Artists Palette set location of Star Wars movies
  • Mushroom Rock
  • Golden Canyon
  • Sunset at Zabriskie Point
  • Camping at Furnace Creek

Day 4

  • Sunrise at Zabriskie Point
  • Twenty Mule Team canyon
  • Sunset at Dante’s View
  • Camping at Mesquite Springs

Day 5

  • Ubehebe crater
  • Teakettle junction
  • Sunset at Racetrack Playa, home of the moving rocks
  • Camping at Racetrack Playa

Day 6

  • Sunrise at Racetrack Playa
  • Scotty’s Castle
  • Sunset at Eureka Dunes
  • Camping at Eureka Dunes

Day 7

  • Sunrise at Eureka Dunes
  • Dunmovin ghost town
  • Search for the elusive U2 Joshua Tree
  • Darwin ghost town
  • Panamint Springs

Amsterdam

I’m in Amsterdam for a few days to get acclimated to my new time zone before catching the direct flight from Schipol to Kilimanjaro airport.

At this point my body is thoroughly confused as to which time zone it’s supposed to be in. Eartlier this month I was in Asia, last week in Finland and a few days ago in San Francisco. It will be good to stick to a time zone for a while.

Amsterdam is a human scale city. There are few cars in the city center, but an extensive network of public transit… and bicycles everywhere. It reminds me of San Francisco. It’s about the same size and share of some its liberal, progressive values. In both cities people will accept you for who you are, and both have an appreciation for art and artistic expression.

The Golden Age architecture, the tree lined canals, and the friendly, relaxed pace of life make it an excellent place to transition from my usual frantic pace to something a bit more mellow. I’m in purge mode now, trying to flush out my system all the worries, frustrations and annoyances from the past 18 months. Amsterdam is a great place to do that.